The information provided below, was gathered from these sites (+ some sites that no longer exist):
- Religious Costume & Clothing Links at The Costumer's Manifesto
- the New Advent encyclopedia provided the information about the historical background for the costumes used by the clergy through the ages
- A description of when the different vestments were to be used
Historical background
In the sixth and following centuries we find that in Rome and in countries near Rome the civil dress of the clergy began markedly to differ from that of the laity, the reason probably being that the former adhered to the old Roman type of costume with its long tunic and voluminous cloak, representing the toga, whereas the laity were increasingly inclined to adopt the short tunic, with breeches and mantle, of the gens braccata, i. e. the Northern barbarians, who were now the masters of Italy. Probably this Roman influence made itself felt to some extent throughout Western Christendom.
The Fourth Lateran Council (1215) laid down the principle that clerics must wear garments closed in front and free from extravagance as to length (Clausa deferant desuper indumenta nimiâ brevitate vel longitudine non notanda. Mansi, XXII, 1006). It would seem that the closed cope has a modern representative in the cappa magna of cardinals and bishops, and also in the chimere (etymologically descended from the Italian zimarra), the loose mantle now worn by the Anglican episcopate to which the well known lawn sleeves are attached. The modern and more centralized legislation regarding clerical costume may be considered to begin with a constitution of Sixtus V, in 1589, insisting under the severest penalties that all clerics, even those in minor orders, should uniformly wear the vestis talaris and go tonsured. Offenders were to lose all title to their benefices or any other emolument which they held. Another edict issued under Urban VIII, in 1624, goes into greater detail. It directs that the cassock should be confined with a cincture, and that the cloak worn over it should normally, like the cassock, fall as low as the ankles. The under-dress, the hose included, should be modest, and dark in colour. All embroidery and lace upon collar or cuffs is forbidden. The hat shall be of approved shape, and a simple cord or ribbon shall form its only ornament.
The zucchetto
The zucchetto is the silk skullcap worn by Catholic bishops. It is white for the Pope, scarlet for a cardinal, and violet for a bishop. Priests may use a black cloth zucchetto for everyday wear, but not during the liturgy. The zucchetto originated in the very early Church as the covering of the clerical tonsure. During the Middle Ages and early Renaissance, different colors were allowed to the different ranks of the hierarchy.
The alb
The alb is the white, long vestment, tied at the waiste with a cincture, worn by all clerics at liturgical celebrations as either celebrant, concelebrant, deacon, or acolyte. The alb (from Latin alba, white) can be traced directly to the ancient Roman alb worn by all citizens under a cloak or tunic. It is traditionally made of linen, wool, or cotton blend.
The amice
The amice is a rectangular piece of white linen with two strings at the upper corners which a cleric vested in alb uses underneath to cover the neck and collar. This way, the Roman collar of the cassock cannot be seen under the alb. The word amice comes from the Latin amicire (to cover). Originally, it was meant to protect the Roman collar, which was then made of starched linen, from sweat stains.
The biretta
The biretta is a square-shaped hat with silk trim and tuft. It has three raised wings, called "horns," on the top. It is made of scarlet watered silk for cardinals, violet silk for bishops, and black merlino for priests, deacons, and seminarians. For protonotaries apostolic de numero, the biretta is black but the tuft and trim are crimson red. Seminarians and cardinals have no tuft on the birette. There is a four-horned black biretta which non-episcopal pontifical doctors use in an academic setting. The biretta is now optional for clerics celebrating or concelebrating Mass. The biretta evolved from the soft, square academic hat of the high Middle Ages (specifically from Milan). This same hat is the ancestor of the modern academic mortarboard and the soft doctoral cap in secular universities, and also of the papal camauro. The horns appeared during the Renaissance in Italy, and the tassels were replaced by the single tuft in the center. By 1527, the biretta had reached the point as we now recognize it.
The cassock
The cassock (or pellicia, pelisse, or commonly soutane) is the central vestment of the Catholic Church. It is floor-length, with 33 buttons total (representing Christ's earthly years), topped with a Roman collar. The choir cassock is scarlet for cardinals. The piping and buttons are scarlet for cardinals. The old Latin pellicia existed even as early as the Dark Ages, mainly in France and Spain. Prelates often trimmed their cassocks with ermine. This pellicia was a heavy wool cloak lined with animal fur, and used by clergy and laity alike. The cassock in its present form has not changed since the 12th century, when it was dropped by the laity and adapted for ecclesiastical wear by the Church.
The cappa
The cappa is the cape used by clerics, usually with a shoulder-cape attached. It is made of black wool for all clerics but the Pope, who alone uses the red cappa with gold trim. The cappa in its present form was merely adopted from the general Roman secular fashion. (The type of cape allowable for clerics was set in 1832.)
Teksten er hentet fra:
HERBERT THURSTON.
Transcribed by Douglas J. Potter
Dedicated to the Immaculate Heart of the Blessed Virgin Mary
ordforklaring
Cassock = prestekjole
Cape = cape, overstykke
amice = skulderklede, akselklede
alb = alba, messeskjorte, messeserk
Siden er laget av Karoline. Sist endret 16. oktober 2001.